The Unavoidable Repair: Pedal Shaft and

Bushing Replacement on TDs and TFs

by Jeffery Delk, Southeastern MG T Register

For our November Tech article, we reprinted Richard Kellogg’s

excellent summary of how he repaired the TD/TF pedal shaft

assemblies on left-hand-drive (LHD) cars (mgTalk: February,

1985). While the fundamental information in Richard’s article

still remains very relevant today, many enthusiasts are now

approaching the task in other ways and some minor aspects of

the repair can be approached in a slightly different manner.

Richard mentioned that his article was based on Bob De Costa’s

earlier technical article (The Sacred Octagon: October, 1966), so

the repair has been a topic of discussion (and frustration!) for

some time. When preparing for our September Tech Session on

Bill and Andria Dinzole’s LHD TD, I studied Richard’s article and

reviewed various online questions/posts relating to pedal shaft

repair. I want to thank Mr. De Costa and Richard for writing

their earlier articles and extend thanks to those online who

unknowingly provided additional information via their recent

questions/postings.

Virtually every TD and TF on the road today has, at some point

in its life, developed a lateral movement in the brake pedal. In

some severe instances, this lateral movement may be

accompanied by a fore-and-aft movement of the entire pedal shaft

assembly (clutch pedal, brake pedal, and shaft). Any TD/TF

driven regularly since the 1950s will have experienced repairs to

this area at least once, if not twice, during its past 60 years of

service. My TF had this problem when I purchased it, and I can

assure you that the car did not inspire confidence when driving in

either a normal or sporting mode! I had to hunt around with my

feet for the pedals and then struggle to keep my feet on them

once they were found. This is not an ideal situation for a sports

car where shifting and braking are so fundamental to an enjoyable

driving experience. After purchasing the car and making a list of

the needed repairs, the brake/clutch pedal shaft and bushings sat

high on the list.

I couldn’t wait to get rid of the excess

movement and restore the proper feel of the pedals.

The lateral movement of the brake pedal arm is caused by a worn

pedal arm bushing – though wear in the actual shaft and the two

in-frame bushings (inner and outer) will add to this movement.

On LHD cars, the clutch arm is located on the shaft by means of

a half-moon shaped Woodruff key and is secured to the shaft by

means of a bolt, lock washer and nut – the bolt passing over a

recessed area of the circular shaft. No interior bushing is fitted to

the clutch pedal arm and, as a result, the clutch arm doesn’t suffer

from the arm-to-shaft lateral movement that is so commonly

found with the brake pedal/arm (see Figure 1). Any lateral or

fore-and-aft movement of the clutch pedal arm is due (solely) to

wear in the fit between the frame bushings and the shaft.

Over the years, many have expressed frustration about the

“errors” that were committed during the original design of the

pedal box and the pedal assembly (on both LHD and RHD

assemblies). Some have questioned the logic of welding the

pedal box to the frame and have suggested that a bolt-on box

would have been preferable.

Fig. 1 Detail view of right and left hand pedal shaft

assemblies – from Brown and Gammons parts list.

An indication of this frustration is that some boxes have been

badly hacked up and cut away during earlier “repairs” (see Fig. 2).

Fig.2 The remains of a pedal box that has been

butchered during a previous “repair”.

Others have suggested that the shaft’s grease zerk (where fitted)

should have been placed on the interior end of the shaft (inside

the pedal box) - as opposed to the exterior end (outside of the

frame rail - where it is covered by the lower apron of the front

fender).

When the TD was designed, the pedal assembly

arrangement found on MG’s existing Y Type Sedan was basically

the root problems and they are difficult to understand – even

carried forward (with slight modification) for use on the TD. In

when one considers the low-cost approach to manufacture that

retrospect, the arrangement seems to have had a limited service

was taken by Nuffield and MG at that time. I can’t imagine that

life – one that failed to see the car through its effective term of

an additional grease outlet hole for the inner frame bushing on

use. By 1953, Abingdon seems to have realized that the shafts

the LHD shaft (and the drilling of the RHD shaft to provide for

were not holding up too well. One indication of this realization

two outlet holes as well as the addition of a grease fitting) would

is that, on later cars, the shape of the front fender aprons was

have been that expensive. The end result of all of this is that the

modified at the lower rear edge to facilitate service/repair of the

above factors combine to present current owners with sloppy

pedal shaft. On the later TDs and all TFs, this modification

pedals and an unavoidable repair.

allows for easy access to the shaft and its grease zerk.

A second indication was the introduction of a large, round

Removal and Disassembly

service-access hole at the bottom of the pedal box – this allows

Others are correct in stating that the pedal assembly is best

for better access to the brake return spring and the ends of the

repaired when conducting a complete restoration – when the body

pedal arms. Together, these two modifications make service and

tub has been removed. This certainly makes things easier. That

adjustment of pedal free-play much easier.

being said, it is still relatively easy to remove and replace the

Almost everyone has criticized (with justification) the

shaft and bushings with the car intact. Neither the left-hand

factory’s failure to make provisions for proper lubrication of the

floorboard nor the gearbox were removed for the last two shafts I

three bushings used in the pedal assembly and, over the years, the

have replaced (LHD TF1500 and LHD TD). It is a tight squeeze

sole reason for most failures has been a simple lack of

– but it can be done. For the Dinzole’s TD, we did remove the

lubrication. One factor contributing to poor lubrication is the

left front fender – to give access to the exterior end of the pedal

fact that the grease zerk location was never illustrated and was

shaft. Even this is not necessary when working on the later TDs

omitted from the lubrication charts found in the Nuffield-

and all TFs.

published TD/TF Operation Manuals and Workshop Manuals.

If you take a minute and perform a quick Google search on the

The pedal shaft is referenced on page 45 of the TD Operation

web, you will find several technical entries and BBS discussions

Manual and on page 40 of the TF/TF1500 Operation Manual –

relating to the “pedal box” and “brake/clutch shaft replacement”.

both references are found in the “Periodical Attention” sections.

Most begin by saying that the repair is “the worst job you will

Under the heading “Every 500 miles (800 km.)”, the manual

ever do on your T car”. While the job is messy and somewhat

outlines grease nipple locations and states “(On LHD models

involved, my experience (and that of others) has shown that it is

there is one on the clutch and brake shaft in addition.)”.

really not that difficult. It is probably one of the most rewarding

Unfortunately, they fail to mention that the grease zerk is hidden

repairs you can make on your car. It can be done in a day with

by the fender apron! Though mentioned in the text of these two

ease and the repair will transform your driving experience. For

Operation Manuals and possibly listed as “Lever Fulcrums” under

the money, it is one of the best things you can do to restore the

section D of the “Key To Recommended Lubricants” chart, the

car’s responsive nature when driving.

pedal shaft grease zerk is not included in the accompanying two-

As our goal on the Dinzole’s TD was to remove and replace

color “Lubrication Chart” or the lubrication schedule found at the

the shaft and bushings in one morning session – with other Club

end of the Operation Manuals.

members watching - we pre-ordered the shaft, the two frame

The factory Workshop Manuals for the TD and TF repeat this

bushings, the brake pedal arm bushing, the two spacers, a circlip,

error.

On page 15, the Workshop Manual carries the entry

and one grease fitting. You may wish to order new brake and

(mentioned above) under the heading “Maintenance Attention” –

clutch pedal pad rubbers, a new fume excluder and retainer, clutch

it later mentions the pedal shaft under Section P.4 (Item 6) on

and brake arm clevis pins, and a brake return spring, if these

page P5. The entry is unfortunately omitted on the “Lubrication

items are needed. Many have commented that the brake return

Chart”, its accompanying listing of required lubricants, and the

springs being supplied are not correct for the cars. I had this

lubrication schedule. Note: The RHD shafts were not actually

experience with the spring I ordered – in the resting position, the

drilled for a grease fitting and did not (theoretically) require

spring hangs loose and does nothing to help pull back the pedal

maintenance or mention in the original schedule – even though

arm. Many simply run the cars without a return spring as the

two bushings are used in that assembly (see notes below on the

fume excluder rubber pulls the arm back on its own.

RHD assembly).

The end result is that most pedal shaft

Step 1: As soon as possible, begin to soak the clutch/pedal

assemblies were in service for thousands and thousands of miles

shaft joint with PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or some other

without ever being greased – I doubt if any were greased every

proper penetrant (do not use WD 40 as it is a lubricant and is not

500 miles as specified in the manuals.

really intended for use in releasing a rust bond). Repeat this

A more significant factor contributing to the lack of

several times before you begin your repair. One of the most

lubrication is the factory’s provision of only two grease outlets

frustrating aspects of the repair – one that can sneak up on you

for the shaft and bushings – when three (or more) outlets are

and cause some difficulty – is the removal and replacement of the

actually needed for proper lubrication of the outer frame bushing,

clutch pedal arm. A rust bond can sometimes form between the

the inner frame bushing, and the brake pedal arm bushing. This

clutch arm and the pedal shaft. If the arm is rusted to the shaft, it

oversight is even more apparent on the RHD cars – where there

will be very difficult to separate the two and remove the

was no provision at all for greasing the bushings. This is

assembly from the small opening in the side of the pedal box.

especially bad as both the clutch and brake pedal arms rotate on a

Once the shaft has been driven out of the two frame bushings,

stationary shaft in the RHD cars. These poor design choices are

the entire assembly will be flopping around loose inside the pedal

box – with the upper ends of the two arms sticking up through

the floor board opening and the clutch arm and the lower ends of

the pedal arms sticking down inside the box. It is difficult to

separate the clutch arm from the shaft once you reach this point.

Some enthusiasts have reported great difficulties with this – so

start spraying in advance of your repair.

You will need to

remove both pedal pads and the rubber fume excluder to gain

access to the top of the pedal shaft assembly.

Step 2 : Order your needed repair parts – go ahead and order a

new pedal shaft as yours will most likely be worn. Some

owners, those with the skill and the proper machine tools, have

refurbished old shafts by building them up (the shaft surface) by

welding, and then turning them back down to the original specs.

This is beyond the skill level of most owners. A local machine

shop may be willing to do this for you, but I would look into

the cost and compare it to that of a new shaft. You will also

need two bushings for the frame, one bushing for the brake pedal

arm, a circlip, a grease zerk, and two clevis pins.

Step 3 : Remove the side cover (remove the three bolts/lock

washers and the one nut/washer). Having three bolts and one

stud is correct – as this allows the cover to be opened for normal

servicing without actually removing it from the box.

Once

removed, you will notice that the pedal box opening has a small

relief cut into the center of the lower flange/lip – this relief

allows the lower end of the clutch arm to pass in and out of the

box during the removal and replacement of the shaft. The arm

must be correctly rotated/positioned to pass through this

opening. Be mindful of this later as you drive out and then

replace the shaft. Remove the clevis pins from the brake and

clutch pedal arms and remove the brake return spring (if one is

still fitted). I find it helps to remove the brake master cylinder as

this gives you a little more room inside the box for cleaning and

allows for easier manipulation of the pedal assembly - this is not

required however. Remove the clevis pins from the ends of the

brake and clutch arms. Remove the clutch linkage (cable or rod)

from the box. Remove the nut, split washer and pinch bolt from

the clutch pedal arm.

Step 4 : Remove the circlip from the external end of the pedal

shaft. If you are working on an early TD, you will need to

remove the left front fender in order to gain access to the circlip

and shaft. Remove the grease zerk fitted to the end of the shaft.

Using a drift, drive the shaft into the frame – be sure to avoid

hitting the bushing as you do this. The shaft should move with

ease as everything will be quite worn. The shaft will stop once

the pedal arms have stopped against the interior of the box.

From above, tap the clutch arm back to the left to expose the

Woodruff key. Brace the pedal shaft in position by bracing the

clutch drop arm as you tap back on clutch pedal arm. Remove

the key with side cutters or wire cutters – the tight fit of the key

makes it almost impossible to remove the key from above with

needle-nose pliers. With the key removed, the clutch and brake

arms can be moved off of the shaft as you finish removing it

from the frame. You may need to twist it as you pull or tap it

out. Watch for the spacers on both sides of the brake arm. The

two frame bushings may now be removed. These are driven out

of the frame with either a shouldered mandrel or a suitable socket

and extension. Drive the outer bushing into the frame to make

contact with the interior bushing – keep tapping until both drop

into the pedal box. Others have used pullers to remove and refit

the bushings. Some bushings may simply pull out with your

fingers as they have worn to such an extent to be non-

functioning. After driving out the two frame bushings, make

certain that the bushing tube is free from nicks and other

deformities. A nick or a gouge can cause the new bushings to

seize in an improper position or become cocked as they are first

introduced into the tube.

Step 5 : With the space now empty, this is a good time to face

the 60 years of collected goo that you will find in your pedal

box. Grease, sand grit, old split pins, bolts, washers, you name

it – all may be found in the box. As you excavate all of this

from the box, just scrape it off on an old shop rag or some paper

towels – have an entire roll on hand as this is the messy part.

Keep digging this goo out until the interior of the box is nice

and clean. I complete the cleaning by wiping everything down

on the inside with carb cleaner that had been sprayed into a clean

shop rag.

The early pedal box, as found on TDs prior to Nov. 1952 (TD

22251), lacks the clutch stop that is on later cars (see Fig. 3).

Fig. 3 View inside the pedal box showing the stop-

pin for the clutch, the recessed area at the base o f

the inspection cover opening (to allow for the

passage of the clutch lever arm, and large, round

opening found at the bottom of the later-style pedal

box (as fitted to later TDs and all TFs).

This clutch stop was fitted at the same time the rod operated

clutch replaced the cable operated clutch. The placement of this

stop pin prevents the arm from moving too far back, bending the

clutch actuating rod, and over extending/stressing the clutch

release fingers. If your pedal box has a small hole in the bottom

– you are most likely missing your clutch stop pin. The early

pedal box also lacks the large round access hole that is found in

the bottom of the box on later TDs and all TFs. This large

opening greatly aids access and simplifies maintenance and repair.

Neither Moss nor Abingdon list a cover plug for this access hole

– though a suitable rubber plug with a lipped flange (similar to

that found on the later type master cylinder inspection hole) may

be used to seal off the opening.

This is a good time to check the clevis pins for wear – replace

these if needed as this will remove some of the lost motion that

may exist in the clutch and brake linkages (see Fig. 4).