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Well, our 4.3 conversion is complete and (knocking-wood / crossing-fingers)
everything appears to be working great. The differential is a whole lot
quieter, (mostly because the carrier bearings were shot), and I can now
travel with traffic and not think that the engine will explode. We really
couldn't be happier.
I want to thank all of the brethren out there who offered advice and
guidance. We poured over the Cedarstrand book prior to starting the job, and
would like to give special thanks to Don Harmer and the Atlanta group who
have de-mystified the process.
We ended up spending a fair amount of money. It was not as much as the
often-quoted $1000 for a professional job, but buying the components and
machining the various pieces as per the Cedarstrand book can run into to
some cash. For our part, we have offered to lend our jigs and tools to the
next local guy who wants to try the conversion. I suggest casting about in
your area to find someone who has already done the job and who may still
have the necessary apparatus.
I want to suggest a couple things that we came across that might help the
next guy. The pinion shaft bearing has to be pre-loaded to an inch-pound
specification. We have an inch-pound torque wrench, but the resolution was
not very good and it wasn't working for us at the low end. We had used a
bed-frame rail attached to the output flange to lock the pinion shaft in
order to torque and remove the nut. It was balanced on the flange. By taking
a one-pound weight (in our case a pint can of beverage) and sliding it along
the rail until it started to fall, we were able to use a tape measure to
determine exactly when we had achieved the correct inch-pounds: so many
inches away from the center, so many inch-pounds. (That "pint is a pound the
world around" quote works for those of us in the land of 16 ounce pints. Our
former oppressors with their 20 ounce imperial pints would have to do some
algebra.)
Also, getting the old bearings off of the carrier was tricky. We ended up
pulling them apart with a gear puller. Once you do that, there is nowhere to
get purchase on the remaining part of the bearing to press it off. We found
that we could use the MGA inserts from the Cedarstrand jig, which fit
snuggly into the ball-bearing race. With those pieces in place we were able
to press off the bearings.
I am now using third gear a lot more than I had been, and am using first
gear for the first time since we've owned the car. But whatever gear I'm in,
I'm grinning.
Safety? Fast?
Scott Ashworth - '54 TF (with a wee bit of MGA)