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Picture This

Posting of images of interest to Ttalk viewers

Most images are thumbnails, so give them a click.

 

SU Damper Fix
From David Tinker, Powys, UK
I have owned my 51TD since it was reimported from California in 1989. It has had a total rebuild in that time and more recently a rebuilt engine.

Late last year I noticed a splutter from the engine each time pulling away under power. It took me a while to find what the problem was.

I unscrewed the carburetter damper assembly to find that the small damper piston was missing which had dropped off into the bottom of the piston shaft and retrieving the parts revealed how the piston had been fixed by a previous owner. A press stud.

It had done a good job for more than 20 years so I raided my wife's sewing basket to find an exact match!! Both damper pistons were secured in the same way		 SU Damper Fix
LHD vs RHD Rack and Pinion

From Stuart Duncan of Australia
via Gordon Lawson
TF Wiring Loom Attachments from Collin Stafford (3/29/08)
Bolt holding the wiring clip is hex head with nut and washer on the inside of the wing.
 
Added, orig fuse block with its original fuses.....believe that or not, but its true. Prince of light.
NA-8 Champion plug was in car when purchased......burned down to 24,000 miles. Gotta believe they came in the car.

 

 
Synchrometer Adapters for TF (John Progess 4/7/07)

The fittings are made from 1" schedule 40 sprinkler fittings. You need a 90 deg. ell, a coupling and a short piece of pipe. I did not glue the pieces together, just slipped them together. As you can see one end of the 90 deg. ell is machined down to fit inside the carb throat. I machined them to fit each carb individually as the throat diameters were slightly different (1.382" dia. and 1.385" dia.). I did this to get a snug fit inside the throat of the carb and also to help clearance of the side panels. The outer end of the coupling is beveled to fit the end of the synchrometer. I also put an "O" ring on the machined section in an effort to seal against the carb flange (probably not necessary). I made two complete fittings so I could have one for each carb allowing me to switch the synchrometer from carb to carb during tuneup.

Temperature Sensor Coils(TF)- Collin Stafford
Attached are 4 files of the Temp wire, orig. clips, orig coil, routing.

and from Evan Ford:This picture is from my unrestored TD.
 

 
Gearbox Drain Plug Ring From Bryan Sieling:

Attached is a photo of the clip I have on my gearbox drain plug.   Shown is the brass plug, the clip, and the copper washer.  I found an  identical clip on a spare gearbox I have, so I think its a real  part.  I'm beginning to think it might serve to keep the washer from  falling off, because it was very difficult to remove the washer in  order to take the picture as it kept getting hung up on the clip.

The other image is one showing the same split ring in the drain plug of the gearbox from 'the53'.--Bud

 

 
Clutch Linkage Modifications\s  by Gordon Clark (Feb 28 '07)
I have been working quietly in the background putting some details to my design for an entirely new approach to the clutch actuators.
 
Here is a crude sketch which is still missing quite a bit of data which I hope to have in the next several days.
You can see that I'm using a turnbuckle and nylok jam nuts to adjust and secure the rod. The lever on the sump will be fabricated but will retain almost identical dimensions. It will be wider to accomodate a sealed needle bearing on the sump shaft.
 
I want to do away completely with the clevis and pin arrangement.
 
In all cases I will be bolting the rod ends directly to the sides of the lever(s). While this may seem to impart side stresses, it has been shown by Don Harmer and John Masters that is works well and is reliable, especially in Don Harmer's case when it hasn't failed in 30 years! Pic below from John Master.

 

Adjustable Clutch Link by George Butz III

At Don Harmer's suggestion, I made the easy to make adjustable upper rod.  I just measured and cut it, used a 3/8-16 tap to tap the inside,  bought a 3/8" threaded bolt/nuts, and there it is.

Brian Smith's Luggage Rack:

I sent some pictures off to you ... of a luggage rack I made up that is quite functional and ALMOST looks like it should be there.

Brian Smith's MirrorsI

sent some pictures off to you ... that covered installing some wing mirrors on a TD windshield frame

Don's Door Latch from Don Harmer

Click Here to view the full copy of the article as presented in The Southeastern Mg T Register mgTalk of October 1988.

 
Bonnet Hinge Supports, inner & outer

Front and Rear 
I was asked to provide pictures of the new location for the temp sensor bulb, here they are. Two of them are in a TD elbow and the third is of the one in my TD which is in the old themostat housing.

Breather tube lower clamp.  Source of images is unknown.
Thanks for the offer to put these up on Ttalk.  Hopefully, someone will id them.  That said, now that I look at the photo, they are somewhat different.  One clearly has a split rivet hole, the other does not.  They were clearly on the vehicle, maybe not original, when I took it apart.  I put them in a bag marked "gas tank rubber parts".

Dave Rome
Gordon,
         I opened this XPAG engine yesterday to adjust the valves and found a homemade oil deflector -- to keep the oil from the #1 rocker for squirting on the underside of the oil filler cap, hence causing a leak.  Necessity is the mother of invention.
John

 Safety Fast!
John H Twist
University Motors Ltd
6490 Fulton Street East
Ada, Michigan  49301
616 682 0800
616 682 0801 fax
 www.universitymotorsltd.com

 

 
From Gordon Lawson:

Gordon,
        I've been fitting these brackets to TDs for a long time.  It's not original but it sure keeps that tach box from shaking all over and finally shorting out the distributor.
 

Safety Fast!
John H Twist
 

Innards of Engine, ready for the sump.  Shows Moss nyloc nuts on rod bolts and main caps.
Wheel Bearings - from George Butz III
Hi Bud, I ran across this and realized I don't think I ever sent it to you.  This shows the early TD hub "seal" felt, outer cap, and original open bearing.  The permanently sealed, locally available bearing is a direct replacement for the felt and the bearing.  It could also be used in the later TD's with the grease caps, but I think the sealed version is more expensive. 

Asked: Thanks, George.  Is the FM 304S the sealed version?

 Hello Bud, I just called my auto parts friend to clarify.  He states that the "304" is the generic industry bearing size, with different brands having different prefixes.  One "S" is single-sided, metal shield, "SS" double sided metal shielded, "F" rubber, single side, and "FF" double sided, rubber shielded.  Shielded means permanently sealed as well.  George

 
From Mike Eldred:

Last fall, or early winter, I took my TF on one last drive - it turned out to be a disaster.  As I was driving along I heard a "bang!" followed by a very loud metallic "clack, clack, clack,clack."  I thought I had thrown a rod.
I had the car towed home and put in storage over the winter.

After a few other projects this spring, I made enough room in the garage to begin tearing down the engine.  These photos show what I found:  The head of a valve had broken off in #4 cylinder and must have shot around in there.  It banged up the head just a little bit, and smashed the top of the piston, as you see.
Amazingly, it didn't score or scratch the cylinder even a little bit.

So I'm looking for advice.  Can I just replace the single piston and rod?  Can I still get original weight pistons?  Where should I look?  (I'm located near Abingdon Spares.)  I will plan to replace all the rod bearings at the same time.

Or should I replace all four pistons?  Money IS an object here, but I don't want to do all this work and fail to do an adequate job.

   
Purolator Oil Filter Can

Colin M. Stafford
Glove Box Hinges -Bud Krueger
TF Battery Box Wood -- Colin Stafford
Bud here is the details of the battery box for the site. As expected many of these are long gone.
 
The whole thing is painted in flat black, wood and bolts. The hex bolt has washer under as per the pic. but I missed a little line on the dwg. so it does not show. Caught by Dave Payne. anyway it show on the pic.
re: Battery Hold down angle.......this is an item which gets lost.....the little rubber L-shaped pieces that go on the hold down bracket and around the corner of the battery.

 

 Images on separate page.  Click here for link.    
Demister from Gerald Urban.  See demister.htm for more info.
TD Speedometer Face Showing 1600 TPM for standard TD w/5.125 rear end

TPM=Turns Per Mile of speedometer cable
Overflow Pipes on TD in Goguen Museum

Bud Krueger 3/20/06
Arnolt Heater

Bud Krueger March 6, 2006

Glovebox Trim

Bud Krueger May 30, 3005
 
Clutch Return Spring w/modification to prevent loss

Bud Krueger May 19, 2005
TD Gas Tank Straps - submitted by Dennis Sexton

 

Rear Side Curtain Mounting Sleeve with Screw& Curtain Bracket with Notch

Images by Bud Krueger for Jesus Benajes

For Anti Sway Bar Images click here.

Pictures are from outside showing -
right hand side toolbox , inside
left hand side tool box, inside
from inside car left hand side under cowl(dash) from inside car right hand side under cowl(dash) Any help would be apreciated.
(From Bill Cassidy, AUS TD)

From Greg & Grimm 4/18/05

Now I installed my SS Exhaust and lots didn't fit proper. Exhaust made by Bell in England. Fit to manifold OK. Bad fit to tranny bracket had to make adjustments. Muffler is round with in/out off center, ? does the in/out install up or down. If down brackets are huge disaster, if up then 1st bracket (under seat area) is OK but rear bracket is no good and pipe hits curtain box. Now I have done my own problem solving on this and have everything installed so that the floor board won't start a fire and the pipe doesn't hit any thing but I had to fab some brackets. Maybe if Ttalk doesn't mind I could send couple pics of what I did for all to analyze/advise.

Here are Dave's Images -- this time they're not thumbnails. Use your zoom.  --- Bud

Hey Bud,

Getting quite a few folks asking about this maybe you can post these?
Here are before, durring & after shots:
DPO obviously had crack repaired while this was on the car! Found this lovely "lump" hiding under the carbs:
I ground it down, re-welded and beed-blasted it. (don't waste your time blasting...no discount from Jet-Hot for all my work
there, they still "blast it" as part of their service) If you have a crack, fix it first thought, as they send those "out of house"!
Here is the "finished" manifold. 5 years later it looks about the same! (Sterling Finish ..cheapest)
Cost right around $100.00.... Shipping priorty mail through post office with $125 insurance was $20.00.
"In House" turn-around was quoted as 5 days.
Cheers & Best Regards,
David 55 TF1500 #7427
 

 

 

  

Gregg's Seam Ripper 4/26/05

I followed David's advice and went to the sewing store and bought a seam ripper. They had about 4 different types so I bought all 4 but only one worked great. I did not have to make any changes. I will take a pic and put and send to Ttalk. The blade is VERY sharp and has an Arabian Knights type super curve to it and if you hold it at the proper angle it will slice right thru like butter and not scratch the clear plastic. I just did this last week so it's fresh in my mind.

Fuel line routing - Bud Krueger 11/22/05
Door catch - Guy Reynolds 11/11/05

Some time ago there was a discussion on door stops on the TD-TF web site. I am using marine drawer locks (for lack of a better name !) which have worked out very well. I also have the additional benift that I can lock the passenger door when the tonneau is on. 

Later identified by Gene Fodor as:
  They are called "Anti-Rattle Fastener". P/N 2221101
distributed by the SeaDog Line.  the nice part about them is that you can
also put a locking device (small lock) through it and it cannot be opened.
Wheel Puller - Bud    
Turn Signal Relay and Switch Mounting in 'the53'

'53 TD from Colin Stafford

TF of Dave Sheward

Click on the image to see Dave's stuff
From Steve Averka:

I purchased a rather used Marshall J75 Supercharger for my TD.

Just finding one has been a satisfying endeavor. Actually getting it to work properly well...

Unfortunately it was taken apart for repairs many, many years ago and was in pieces in a box. I have all the aluminum case pieces. As far as I can tell the thing seams like it is mostly complete, except for the end opposite the nose extension.

It looks to me like I have the following for that end; 2ea sleeves the seals ride on, 2 thin nuts for the ends of the rotors, 2 ea spacers that are 1.752” id x 1.955od x .195” high , and 2 ea seals still in the end piece. I know the bearings are missing from that end. I also know the nut on the drive gear coupler is missing.

Does anybody have any information that would help me get this thing back together? I have done a search of the archives and while prints were discussed I can not locate any. I have emailed John Bibby a few days ago – no reply