Dynamator for Lazarus without Control Box

This article follows Dynamator-for-Lazarus in describing how I went about converting Lazarus, my 1952 MG TD #10855 from using a dynamo to using an alternator.  The alternator that I installed is U.K.-sourced and is called a Dynamator.  It is constructed with a mechanical output for driving the TD's Tachometer Gearbox and has a potential output of 45 amps.  I purchased the Dynamator from Abingdon Spares in Deep River, CT for about $220US.  I have no financial involvement with Abingdon Spares except  that I've been sending money to the organization since I bought Lazarus in 1988.

The first article in this series, Dynamator-for-Lazarus, describes doing the conversion by using an RB106/2 Control Box to aid in the wiring.  I've learned that it is also possible to do the conversion without having to utilize a control box, i.e., through the use of a common 8 connection wiring strip.  That is the technique used here.  The wiring strip was purchased for about $13US through Amazon and came in a package of 4 wiring strips and 4 pieces of interconnection strips.

Below is the modified portion of the WSM wiring diagram that covers a TD with a 5 terminal control box on the left and an image of the wired terminal strip on the right.  Terminals on the strip are numbered from the top down.  #1 is the brown/blue wire that feeds the Ignition Switch; #2 is the brown/white wire that connects to the ammeter; #3 contains the small yellow wire that comes from the Ignition Warning Light (it was formerly on the Control Box D terminal with the D lead from the dynamo); #4 is for the yellow/green wire that came from the dynamo Field terminal (now comes from the Dynamator's Field terminal; #5 is for the 10 gauge wire from the Dynamator's D terminal (was from the dynamo's yellow wire); #6 and #7 are for the black ground/earth wires from the wiring harness; #8 is for the black ground/earth wire that goes to a ground connector at the battery's grounding/earthing point.  The heavy yellow wires are the leads from the 40 amp fuse holder that connects the Dynamator output to the #1 and #2 terminal junction.  The red pieces are shorting bars connecting adjacent terminals.  The black covered pieces connect the three ground terminals together.

                                            

These articles are bound to be getting improvements in the near future, so I heartily recommend that you refresh your browser when you check them out.

 

 

 

 

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